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Financial jargon can feel like a foreign language. Here are the terms that actually matter, in plain English.
A tax form used to report income that isn't from a traditional employer — freelance work, contract jobs, interest, dividends, or government payments. If you earned $600 or more from a client or platform, they're required to send you a 1099. You're responsible for reporting that income and paying taxes on it, including self-employment tax if applicable.
How a loan payment is split between interest and principal over time. Early in a mortgage, most of your payment goes to interest. Later, more goes to paying down the actual balance. That’s why extra payments early on save you the most money.
The yearly interest rate you’re charged on a loan or credit card. If your credit card has a 24% APR, that’s roughly 2% per month on whatever balance you carry. Lower is better.
The actual rate of return you earn on savings or investments in a year, including compound interest. A savings account advertising 5% APY means your money grows by 5% over the year, with interest compounding along the way.
Everything you own that has financial value — your savings, investments, car, home, retirement accounts. Assets are one side of the net worth equation.
The amount of money in an account or the amount you owe on a debt. A savings balance is what you have. A credit card balance is what you owe. Context matters.
A plan for how you’ll use your money each month. It’s not a restriction — it’s a map. A budget tells your money where to go instead of wondering where it went.
When your savings earn interest, that interest gets added to your balance — and then you start earning interest on the bigger amount. Over time, your money grows faster and faster because each round of interest is calculated on a larger number. This is why even small amounts saved early can grow into something significant.
A number (usually 300–850) that represents how reliable you are as a borrower. It’s based on your payment history, how much debt you carry, how long you’ve had credit, and a few other factors. Higher is better, and it affects the interest rates you’re offered.
How much of your available credit you’re using. If you have a $10,000 credit limit and a $3,000 balance, your utilization is 30%. Keeping it under 30% — ideally under 10% — helps your credit score.
The amount you pay out of pocket before your insurance kicks in. If your health insurance deductible is $2,000, you pay the first $2,000 of covered expenses yourself each year before insurance starts covering its share.
How much of your monthly income goes toward debt payments. If you earn $4,000/month and pay $1,400 in debt, your DTI is 35%. The CFPB recommends staying at or below 35%.
Money set aside for unexpected expenses — car repairs, medical bills, job loss. Most experts suggest 3-6 months of essential expenses. Even $500 is a meaningful start.
The portion of an asset you actually own. If your home is worth $300,000 and you owe $200,000 on the mortgage, you have $100,000 in equity. It’s the difference between value and debt.
Money held by a third party on behalf of two other parties. In homeownership, your lender often collects extra with your mortgage payment to cover property taxes and insurance, holding it in escrow until those bills are due.
A bill that stays the same amount each month — rent, car payment, insurance premium. These are predictable, which makes them the easiest part of your budget to plan for.
Your total earnings before taxes and deductions are taken out. This is the bigger number on your pay stub — not the amount that actually hits your bank account.
An investment that automatically holds a little bit of many different stocks or bonds, designed to match the performance of a market index like the S&P 500. It’s a simple, low-cost way to invest without picking individual stocks.
The percentage a lender charges you to borrow money, or the percentage a bank pays you for keeping your money with them. When you owe, lower is better. When you save, higher is better.
Everything you owe — credit card balances, student loans, car loans, mortgage. Liabilities are the other side of the net worth equation. Assets minus liabilities equals net worth.
The smallest amount you can pay on a debt each month without being penalized. Paying only the minimum keeps you in good standing but means you’ll pay much more in interest over time and take much longer to pay off the balance.
Your take-home pay — what actually lands in your bank account after taxes, insurance, and other deductions. This is the number your budget should be built on.
Everything you own minus everything you owe. If you have $10,000 in savings and $7,000 in debt, your net worth is $3,000. It’s a snapshot of where you stand financially right now.
The amount you pay for insurance coverage, usually monthly. It’s separate from your deductible and copays — you pay the premium whether or not you use the insurance that month.
The original amount of money you borrowed, not counting interest. When you make a loan payment, part goes to interest and part goes to reducing the principal. The faster you reduce the principal, the less interest you’ll pay overall.
Replacing an existing loan with a new one, usually to get a lower interest rate, lower monthly payment, or different loan terms. Common with mortgages, student loans, and auto loans.
Money you set aside gradually for a planned future expense — holiday gifts, car insurance due in 6 months, a vacation. Instead of one big hit to your budget, you spread the cost over several months.
A debt payoff strategy where you pay off your smallest balance first, then roll that payment into the next smallest. You build momentum with quick wins. It’s not the most mathematically efficient, but it’s the most motivating for many people.
A debt payoff strategy where you pay off the debt with the highest interest rate first, saving you the most money over time. It requires more patience early on since progress can feel slower, but the math is in your favor.
A bill or cost that changes from month to month — groceries, gas, electricity, entertainment. These are the areas where small adjustments can make the biggest difference in your budget.
A form you fill out for your employer that tells them how much federal income tax to withhold from your paycheck. Getting it right means you won’t owe a big tax bill or give the government a large interest-free loan through over-withholding.
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